Paul Costelloe opened his six’s London Fashion Week season with cheerful peekaboo skirts in silvery hues, setting the tone for the trends to follow.
Maria Grachvogel did the following on her own terms, bringing a touch of beauty to recently grungy mode with canary and silver satins, silk crepes, diaphanous chiffon dresses, and her signature juxtaposing print textures. We loved the Transformer blouse which can be worn six ways, and the masculine touch of defined shoulder detail, present even in this, very feminine line. British Fashion Council Chairman Harold Tillman spoke to us after the show about his affection for the line “I love Maria as a person, and I think she’s always subtly exquisite. I really enjoy what she designs.”
At On/Off Jean-Pierre Braganza rosy cheeked models with feathers in their hair showed off wilted rose prints and tattoo-like American Indian patterns on pale pastels.
Back at British Fashion Council tent we went back to in time for 50’s inspired Caroline Charles show with polka dots, hats, gloves, and Grace Kelly inspired skirts.
Then back to On/Off and in turn back to the future with Bora Aksu, whose models sported giant ants in their hair, rather unflattering paint covered-like tights and lots of cute bow and ruffle details on silver, skin tone, and scarlet fabrics. We loved the cut out details on the shoulder blades as if cut off wings. Backstage Bora spoke to us about his show “My inspiration was a clash of the future and 50’s. It actually started with the ant. Their insect shapes, and how their bodies form, then I moved on from that to how 50’s padded undergarments were made. I ran with it and decided to create curves, so the clothes are bodycon with added hips and bust”.
Over at Jena Theo turban clad models were dressed in Bedouin inspired cuts trimmed with eastern lace and accessorized with colorful ammo belts. True to form Jena Theo team showed oversized shirt dresses and plenty of artistic flair with their draping style.
Fashion Films were a big hit this fashion week season, and Serbian designer Ana Sekularac’s movie was no exception. Popcorn in hand we were emerged in her wonderful world of music, design and scenery that is a fashion film. After the show we spoke to Ana about her movie “I thought of this film before I even started doing the collection. I initially wanted to show the emotions of the woman wearing the clothes for the first time. It was very important. Then I created the clothes to reflect the emotions of the woman wearing them. The street through which the model was walking represented one phase in her life. The inspiration for my line is actually the same season after season, I want to show the contrast between strong architectural lines and the softness reflecting freedom. My clothes are very wearable, I want them to become tools the wearer can use to express themselves. ”
The Sustainable Show featured some supermodel talent in the faces of stunning Jacquetta Wheeler and Erin O’Connor belted at the waist. First of it's kind it was an important and stylish event deserving of our attention. Very conscious of the need for sustainable fashion, as well as walking in the show Erin also showcased her line of sustainable t-shirts "She Died of Beauty".
The first day was finalized by even more star studded PPQ, attended by Kanye West’s infamous lady – Amber Rose, who, when asked what she thought about the show simply replied “It was good”. Bright satins and Turkish hats by Amy Money gave PPQ’s Hassan collection a very memorable touch. The Telegraph's style guru Hilary Alexander spoke to us after the show “I thought it was very refreshing and quite sexy. I liked this new peplum, with the little pencil skirt underneath – we’ve seen it a couple of times this season, it’s sort of a 50’s madmen kind of skirt, but it’s coming back quite a lot, and I loved the colours!” Songbirds Eliza Doolittle and Paloma Faith also shared their enthusiasm about the line “I really liked some of it, there were a few pieces that I liked very much, in particular the jumpsuits and the shorts, they were very much up my street”, said Eliza. “Really exciting show, colourful and it’s lovely to see something fun that’s not too serious, and a line that’s not taking it’s self too seriously” added Paloma.
Playful Betty Jackson was enthused by the women’s utilitarian army in the 40’s, and brought the look up to date with a sporty angle and accessories by CFDA award winner Alexis Bittar.
Giles Deacon showed us that women of all age are beautiful by finalizing his show with 71 year old world’s first supermodel Veruschka.
Charlie Le Mindu brought a little XXX Factor to London Fashion Week by showing his fabulous coiffure on a couple of nude and…bare models.
Top Shop UniqueHippie inspired Unique show at old Eurostar Waterloo terminal was all about the hair. Which we felt may have districted from the fringed and bellbottomed attire complete with platforms and aviators. After the show Lilly Allen told us what she thought about the collection “It was really feminine, really girly, and I love that. It reminded me a bit of Luella, which is a really good thing!”
Mary KatrantzouFormer interior textile designer Mary Katrantzou wowed the crowd with her ever amazing and ever evolving signature Trompe-l'œil. Lampshade skirts, and chandelier necklaces graced the impossibly complex 3-D images of beautiful rooms from different times transformed onto bodices.
Antonio Berardi show in the beautiful Great Hall on Saint George Street was full of fashion royalty – Vogue, BAZAAR, Suzi Menkes. So was Alexander McQueen Memorial, attended by the likes of Anna Wintour, Hilary Alexander, Naomi Campbell, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kate Moss, and Bjork who gave a very memorable performance.
Just when we thought Matthew Williamson has toned it down, the show ended on some very bright notes.
David Koma mixed hard and soft trend with his Russian rooted love for ballet.
Expectations for Holly Fulton ran sky high, and she did not disappoint.
ErdemErdem forecasts a very flowery spring.
Mark FastMark Fast exceeded our expectations above and beyond. Constantly criticized for this or that, Mark stunned his fans with an incredibly vibrant collection with so much movement and colour that even the most devoted fans fell in love with him all over again. We’re not sure if we speak for all, but we would marry him in a second in that bridal number he spun out in the finale. Backstage Mark told us about this seasons inspiration “This line is inspired by a mixture of reptiles, alligators and different textures from the Amazon, as well as an oil slick, taking colour away and creating more restoration in the end”.
At Covent Garden’s Royal Opera House, Nicole Farhi show welcomed all with an theatre mandatory glass of champagne. We loved the pearly faced make-up as understated looks floated by, emerging us in a sea of shimmery trend.
Over at the Exhibitions we spoke to Zoë Jordan about her line Irwin & Jordan “My background is finance as a bond trader in New York and equity trader in London. However I studied design and architecture, so at one point I decided to follow my dream and it’s been great – we won Talent Launch Pad, which has been amazing, it’s great to have such powerhouses as Elle and BFC behind the brand”. She then added “I can’t say that our collection is fashion led, it’s more style driven – clean, elegant with a tomboy streak which came from my finance background. I design for the girl who is a boy’s best friend and a girl’s confidant. We’re based off Saville Row, so men’s tailoring is important to me. We’re using a lot of metallic’s and ash this season with a pop of orange flame.”
Christopher KaneCanadian Supermodel Jessica Stam strutted in Christopher Kane show watched by the likes of French Vogue Editor-in-Chief Carine Roitfeld, and Sartorialist’s Scott Shulman who told us that he thought the show was a lot more refined and sexier than London style typically is. We personally think Kane was inspired by a pack of highlighters this season.
Roksanda Ilincic must have been high as the sky, both inspirationally speaking and when her On/Off show was attended by the likes of Anna Wintour and Suzi Menkes.
Paul SmithPaul Smith was rocking the house with menswear inspired womenswear.
At Tata Naka presentation at the Portico Rooms in Somerset House we indulged in some delectable lavender jelly. Tamara and Natasha Surguladze spoke to us after the show “Were very happy with the presentation mainly because we got to work with some amazing people.” Bay Garnett styled the show. “We made a styling decision to soften up the line this season, that’s why you wouldn’t see a lot of usual Tata Naka colour splashes.”
Issa showed more Bedouin head gear and uber brights.
Back at Waterloo, Fashion East was attended by the likes of John Rocha who came to support Simone Rocha, who was in good company of Felicity Brown and Heikki Salonen.
Much anticipated Burberry Prorsum drew in expected It Crowd like Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa Chung, Douglas Booth, Serena Williams and Andy Murray. Studded jackets sparked on the runway as the models had a bit of trouble with the gravity.
Ozwald BoatengIn the end Bailey let Boateng take the lead. The closing show was the most impressive event we’ve seen in a long time. Ozwald Boateng celebrated his 25th Anniversary in fashion by staging an event at Odeon Leicester Square to showcase a short film “A Man’s Story” and give us goose bumps by showing just how much one such man can do with a suit. We can’t help but think the collection was also inspired by film, there was Pirates of the Caribbean, Dr. Zhivago, Willy Wonka, and Gangs of New York. Boateng had no less than 100 models including celebrities like Tyrone Wood and received a well deserved standing ovation at the end. It was attended by the likes of Michelle Williams, Tara Palmer Tomkinson and Lady Victoria Harvey. Ozwald’s daughter Emilia told us in perfect Russian: “The event was very good, I’m very proud of my dad”.
All images provided by catwalking.com